How to build your own bar, part 4
Is this thing actually going to take shape, or am I just wasting my time?
by Dave McAwesomeAssembling the pieces I cut the other night with Chip Hardwood was easier than I thought. My 4th grade wood shop skills had thankfully not dulled with time. Basically, I had to make two big boxes to extend the main bar. The Laverne and Shirley flip top doors would be attached to the main bar and rest on a lip on the boxes. The key is measuring the height just right.
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Sometimes, no matter how much you plan, you're still amazed when it turns out. The height was spot on. The boxes were sturdier than I thought (due to cost, I didn't cut a back piece. So picture a small set of shelves with no back. Usually that's wobbly. I had some metal bars I could use as an cross beam in the back (like an x), but it didn't need it. The shelves alone kept it stable.) It went so smoothly that I thought, "crapola, I shouldn't have bought that shelving system for the backbar...I could've built it." See, the shelving system I bought was pine, so I figured, "great, it'll match. I'll sand off their assified finish and finish it the same color as the bar." I realized too late what a pain in the ass sanding it down would be. It was also not long enough. I needed to build a second half of the backbar.
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I borrowed Chip's truck and went back to Home Depot. Not only did I need to get...oh, crap, how does this alarm turn off? Is it this button? Anyway, not only did I need...damn it, the alarm again. The sound is searing my brain! Damn you, Chip! Okay, so the alarm is off and now I can go back into the past tense...which...I dunno, but I felt like switching tenses there. So not only did I need to get more wood, but I started thinking about the bar molding. Bar molding is that lip that you rest your elbows on at the edge of the bar. It's a specialty piece so it's very expensive and must be bought through one of a handful of suppliers. Pine molding, which is cheaper than many other woods, would run me about $200 (including the cost of a corner piece). You could cut a nice molding if you had a router and a few hundred dollars of distinctive bits, but routerless me was stuck. At Home Depot, I had a change of heart and went with a cheaper version. Instead of $200, I spent 20 bucks on some simple pine molding that I mitered in the store (in addition to being routerless, I am also miterless). I also picked up a 12 foot slab of pine because it was on sale and about the same price as the 6 foot piece.
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I don't recall how I got this huge piece of wood (more than double my size) into the truck, but I do remember the aforementioned car alarm played a significant role. I'm also unclear how I drove back to Chip's place...12 feet of wood hanging off the side...without it breaking. What I DO remember is that after I cut these pieces, I went back to my bar-in-progress and noticed the lip (to hold the flip doors) on one of the boxes wasn't exactly level. I unscrewed it. Rescrewed it. Still not level. Now, I don't have a carpenter's plane (so I'm routerless, miterless and planeless...you know what? Someone needs to hook me up for Xmas.), so I went back to the hardware store. After I saw the price, I left the hardware store without a carpenter's plane. I went back to my 4th grade roots. Flat file. Tattered sandpaper. This time, since my overprotective-of-his-rasp shop teacher wasn't there, I would finally employ the Mighty Rasp!
That actually went pretty well. Took maybe 30 or 40 minutes of elbow grease. Sanded smooth. Solid.
Coming up...Part 5: The transformative power of carpentry.
Read the whole story from the beginning.